The pleasures of passionate Palermo

Andrew discovers the charm and beauty of Sicily's Palermo on his visit to one of Italy's more colourful regions.

The mafia is said to have its origins in Sicily, but these days it is the island's charming people, local cuisine and architecture that are more likely to draw the crowds.

Life is very public and lived to the full on the streets of Palermo where eating, drinking and even the laundry creates a sense of community.

Andrew visits a count and countess in their palazzo, which has been in the family for more than 700 years.

It is said that you have real palazzo only when you don't know how many rooms there are, and the countess doesn't.

There is another saying that if you turn around and don't see something you want to eat you are not in Palermo.

Although Andrew is dubious about some of the food he is offered.

Learning the finer points of making a traditional Sicilian pasta dish is a bonus.

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